Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual

• Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual Download
• Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual Pdf
• Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual And Service
• Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual 2016
• Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual And Parts
• Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual 2017

APR’s ECU upgrade is available in octane-specific variations and is conveniently flashed to the vehicle’s factory ECU through the OBD-II port without any physical modification to the factory ECU. APR’s EMCS functionality puts the control of the engine’s operation at your fingertips and allows for additional features and options to be. Fast and easy tuning with MTune. All of our systems come with our easy-to-use MTune software for advanced or simple tuning. Dig deep for seriously advanced settings – or keep it simple.

'The 1.8T was my first turbo engine, and one of the best.'

VAG 1.8T 20v Petrol engine as fitted to Volkswagen/SEAT/Audi cars: 150-240 bhp from the factory.

The 1781 cubic centimeters in this 20 Valve turbo charged engine represents what must still be one of the most tunable engines around today and is found in family cars like the A3 and A4 and on sports oriented models like the TT, and the S3.

The fact these engines can be tuned to such extremes indicates the versatility of them.

The 1.8T was replaced with a 1.8/2.0 TFSi version and we have a guide that covers these and the more recent EA888 version is covered here.

The 20 valves are arranged with 3 intake valves and 2 exhaust valves per cylinder.

1.8T Tech guide

(The exhaust valves are somewhat larger than the intake and this intake configuration makes the engine an efficient one).

The compression ratio is set to 9.5:1, but, a slightly lower 9:1:1 in the 240 bhp versions (and those with the K04 turbo), which although high for a turbo gives plenty of low down torque.

Technical information of this engine: Bore size of 81mm (3.19in) a Stroke of 86.4mm (3.40in) and a Rod Length of 144mm The peak power band is between 2000 and 5000 rpm, and delivers good fuel economy as well around 34-38mpg.

The turbo delivers a boost pressure of 8.7 psi or .6 bar on most variants of this engine although the 180bhp engines run 11.6 psi from 2002.

The standard cast iron engine block is solidly constructed and can handle power levels up to 240bhp in factory tune and many owners have reported much higher power gains than that.

The most common turbos fitted are the KO3 & KO3s (150-180 bhp) and KO4 (210-240).

1.8T engine codes and differences

When planning upgrades it is worth finding out if your engine has the forged components already.

(Generally speaking the AGU APH ARX AUM AVC AVJ AWC AWD AWU AWV AWW BFB AJQ APP ARY AUQ BEX AMK APY APX AJH and BAM came with forged cranks but there are some exceptions to this list.)

The engine code is found at the top part of the engine near the valve cover on the side etched into the head so you might have to clean it off as the stamp often gets covered in grime.

The engine codes are (This list is not exhaustive and covers the most popular engines, some engines were only available in selected markets.)

Small Port size head Engine Codes: ADR, AMB, AMU, APT, APU, ARG, ATC, ATW, AWM, AWP, BEA, AWT, ARX, ARZ, AWC, BJX ,BAM, APX, AMK, BVR, AJQ, AJL, APP, BBU, APY, AUQ, BEX, AYP, AVJ

Large Port size Head Engine Codes: Typically 97-99: AEB, AGU, AFY, AJH, AJL

VVT was included on AUQ, AWU, AWV, AWW, ARX, AUM, AWP, AMK, BAM

1.8T Camshafts

Fast road camshafts usually bump the performance across the rpm range, you could drop a little bottom end bhp but the high end rpm power will be better.

Motorsport and race camshafts, bump the high end rpm power band but as a result the car will not idle smoothly and low end power nearly always suffers.

I'd never have found a Motorsport camshaft to be a pleasure to live with when on the daily commute.

Some 1.8T engines respond better to mild camshaft durations so set your engine up on a rolling road.

The map and fuel pump and injectors also will say much on the power gains you'll hit.

A fast road camshaft is one of the most effective mods you can do on the 1.8T engine, apart from a remap, or turbo upgrade. Competition cams are not great at low RPM and can be quite lump, which makes driving in traffic quite tricky and you'll need a higher tick over to avoid stalling.

A fast road cam works really well though, as it's optimised for road use, it's all about the profile you choose really.

1.8T Tuning tips

There are some good hybrid turbo options out there and the newer twin scroll turbos are worth investigating, much depends on where in the rev range you want the power and other mods you've done.

So lets see what 1.8T tuning mods work best on this gem of an engine.

• Stage 1 mods: Sports exhaust manifold, Panel air filters, Drilled & smoothed airbox, Remaps/piggy back ECU, Intake headers, Fast road camshaft.
• Stage 2 mods: fuel pump upgrades, induction kit, Sports catalyst & performance exhaust, high flow fuel injectors, Fast road cam, Ported and polished head KO4 turbo upgrade.
• Stage 3 mods: Engine balancing & blueprinting, Twin charging conversions, Crank and Piston upgrades to alter compression, Adding or Upgrading forced induction (turbo/supercharger) with hybrid or twinscroll, Internal engine upgrades (head flowing porting/bigger valves), Competition cam.

Porting and flowing the head is really effective, and TorqueCars recommend a 3 or 5 angle valve job to maximise airflow into the engine. This will ensure the engine gives better low end torque and increases it's efficiency.

A remap on a standard engine will typically yield around 40-50bhp increase, and, with the addition of a higher capacity turbo, a freer flowing intercooler and efficient induction and exhaust design, power gains to around 300-350bhp are possible.

Expect to have to upgrade the clutch when increasing the power of the engine or the clutch life will be dramatically reduced the TT aftermarket clutches are likely to be the best option.

The stronger engines had pistons from forged aluminum Mahle, with fracture split forged steel connecting rods mated to a forged crankshaft which is capable of handling far more that the mild 150bhp tune and retaining reliability.

1.8 T Turbos K03 K03S & K04

The KO3 turbo has 12 blades, and with the right supporting mods can release power around 200bhp, the K03s has 8 blades, although lower than the KO3 the K03s will support around 220 to 250bhp.

The K04 is a larger turbo and came in three versions (some suited to the transverse engine layout in the A4)

• K04-020 no temp gauge aperture in the housing
• K04-022 no temp gauge aperture in the housing
• K04-023 with the temperature gauge aperture

When remapped you should see an easy 250bhp on the stock 1.8T and with other mods the K04 can flow to provide around 300bhp.

When pushing these turbos hard you really should look to upgrade the air intake and intercooler.

Turbos fitted to the 1.8T engine - assume K03 unless listed below but there are some regional exceptions.

• K03S
  BBU, BE, BJX, BVP, ARY, AUQ, AWV, ARX, AUM, AWP, BEX
• K04
  BFV, APY, APX, AMK, BAM

An obvious upgrade path for KO3 turbo owners is to swap in a KO4 turbo. The software takes a lot of getting right for the maximum power gains but interestingly most people report that the KO4 turbo runs fine on the standard manufacturers ECU Map.

It is usually easier to remap the standard KO3 engine and set the boost to 1 bar as per a number of aftermarket Audi tuners standard remaps.

The KO4 changes the characteristics of the engine and gives a more rewarding drive pulling hard and when the KO3 starts to run out of steam around 5000 rpm the KO4 still delivers good power so is the logical track day or drag strip turbo.

You may think the KO4 is more prone to lag but this is not the case and both are very similar as far as low down low boost power goes.

A number of aftermarket turbos are available which fit the standard down pipe and they can be tailor made to suit your requirements with many drivers looking for a mix of economy below 2500 rpm and massive power gains from 3000 to 5500.

Hybrid turbos work really well on the 1.8T, this is where the internals are swapped out to give different blades and blade profiles, and dramatically alters the power delivery and characteristics of the turbo.

We've seen mechanics spending a loads on turbocharger upgrades on the 1.8T only to suffer the indignity of watching the 1.8T literally blow up soon after it's been enthusiastically driven.

Large upgraded turbo units often experience no power at low rpm, and low capacity turbo units spool up much more quickly but don't have the top end power band gains.

the market of turbos is always increasing and we now see variable vane turbos, where the vane profile is altered according to speed to lower lag and increase top end bhp.

Twin scroll turbos divert the exhaust flow into 2 channels and feed these at differently angled vanes in the turbo charger. They also boost the scavenging effect of the engine.

It is common that there's a limit in the air flow sensor AFM/MAF on the 1.8T when loads more air is being drawn into the engine.

We note 4 bar air sensors coping with quite large power gains, whereas the OEM air sensor was restricting power at a much lower level.

The 1.8T N75 valve

The N75 is controlled by the ECU and acts as a bleed valve, it regulated the spool up and boost duration of the turbo.

If your N75 is faulty you'll generally experience lower boost, and or power surging or lumpy power delivery. It may even drop into limp home mode.

Check the N75 valve itself, some faults are actually down to a leak in the vacuum lines.

So what does the N75 do?

You want the turbo to keep spinning but if you lift off the boost produced will just build up, if the turbo shuts down, you'll have to wait for it to spool up. Generally in most cars the wastegate assists the turbo to keep spinning and producing power. The N75 uses the wasted boost to keep the turbo spinning at light load conditions, clever eh? This is why you don't want to fit an atmospheric dump valve, as all that lovely pressurised fast moving air is lost (plus it upsets the ECU and you don't want an upset ECU do you?)

It sits between the wastegate and turbos high pressure outlet, it has 2 outputs and just 1 boost input. The output goes to either the wastegate and the intake (fully diverting boost to the wastegate when it's closed or leaking some boost to the intake allowing for a faster spool up).

The top of the N75 is a small screw, in some cars this has a locked thread to prevent tampering. But if you're lucky you won't be thread locked and can make adjustments to it.

You only need to make very small adjustments to make a difference, and you need to bear in mind the ECU is expecting a certain range of performance from it and will go all LIMP on you if you get it wrong.

Setting the N75 valve right is a bit of an art but adjust it to the right and very little air will be vented from the wastegate giving a smoother power delivery but less overall boost.

Turn it to the left you'll get more boost going to the wastegate but you'll notice the power spiking as the N75 closes and opens.

Essentially a performance version allows greater range of control, a faster response and will be less prone to sticking or leaking, all of which can cause problems in your power delivery.

We have heard of people swapping the N75 for an N18 successfully but you'd be better of sourcing a performance version.

Fuelling upgrades on the 1.8T

When you raise the bhp you will need to uprate to the fuel system.

The air intake may need upgrading, typically the sensor housing is enlarged and used with the OEM MAF sensor, but it makes sense to upgrade the MAF sensor if you want to hit higher power levels.

More bhp needs more air and fuel - it's as simple as that.

Most tuners we speak with say to over specify your injectors flow rate.

You won't get more power just adding bigger injectors, but you will hit power limits with other mods fitted if you don't supply enough fuel.

If you have a throttle cable you are usually running the Motronic M3.8 ECU.

Others use a drive by wire system and use the ME7.x version of the ECU note the extra E which means electronic throttle.

• M3.8 AEB, AJL, AGU, AJH.. Pre 98 cars typically had stock injectors that are rated at 205cc and will top out at 220bhp.
• ME7.1/7.5 ARZ, AUM, AUQ, APP, APX ..usually have Bosch 315cc injectors and flow well to 235bhp. To ugprade injectors on these the easy option is to get the 386cc injectors from the ME7.9 engines.
• ME 7.9 BAM, BVF, BBU, BEK, BJX, APY, AMK, APY.. and those with the K04 turbos typically had 386cc injectors that top out around 275bhp.

We've seen 1.8T tuners using Calibra yellows, Saab Reds, and others from the Bosch range all of whom provide upgraded injectors, so it's worth asking around.

Your map needs to take the injector profile into account, so fitting a well known unit can save a lot of time and headaches later.

• Fitting a 315cc injector will take you to around 245bhp
• Bosch 550cc injectors allow power approaching 350bhp
• Bosch 630cc injectors will see you hit around 400bhp.

As a rule of thumb add 20% to the flow rate when buying an injector, this takes into account injector deterioration and affords a bit of spare capacity should the engine need more fuel.

1.8T weak spots and problem areas.

Weak spots - the engine oil used in your Audi must be fully synthetic and changed at the correct service intervals (check your owners manual for details but it is typically a long life Audi service of around 24,000* miles or standard service around 9000 miles.

This depends on how the car is driven so if you are are a heavy footed driver or make lots of short journeys on a cold engine the service interval is reduced from these figures).

Use of the wrong type of oil will cause the oil pump to seize due to sludge created in the turbo housing. This causes a catastrophic loss of oil pressure and engine failure and unless you can prove that the correct oil grade was used the warranty is invalidated.

*Audi long life oil is claimed to last for up to 24,000 miles but all other synthetics are only recommended for 9000 miles!

It seems more sensible to change the oil & filter frequently as metal particles can cause damage to the engine as they become suspended in the oil.

We would change the oil annually or at 12,000 miles using Audi long life oil, it will prolong the life of your engine.

The engine takes 4.35 litres of fully synthetic 5w-30 oil (Audi long life oil must conform to VW 504 00 or 507 00 (Castrol SLX long life III is the special Audi approved oil).

Some users have reported problems with early coil packs but most of these will have been replaced now and newer coil packs do not seem to have any problems.

Fitting a blow off valve or dump valve can cause problems with the engine management as there is a loss of system pressure. There are now VAG friendly dump valves that also recirculate the lost pressure keeping the ECU happy.

The air flow sensor can become soiled particularly if you use a filter which is impregnated with oil. Take off the air flow sensor and clean with a IPA based solvent if you notice any hesitation or problems that can be assigned to a faulty MAF.

PLEASE HELP: I NEED YOUR DONATIONS TO COVER THE COSTS OF RUNNING THIS SITE AND KEEP IT RUNNING. I do not charge you to access this website and it saves most TorqueCars readers $100's each year - but we are NON PROFIT and not even covering our costs. To keep us running PLEASE Donate here

If you liked this page please share it with your friends, drop a link to it in your favourite forum or use the bookmarking options to save it to your social media profile.

Feedback

Please use ourforums if you wish to ask a tuning question, and please note we do not sell parts or services, we are just an online magazine.

Help us improve, leave a suggestion or tip

Audi

1. I build a auditt which we stroked to a 2.1L and fitted a t3 t4 hybrid turbo. I am sitting with a huge problem in that the throttle closes itself under hard boost. Is there any way of solving this problem. On the dyno the car acts normal but on the road it starts having a mind of its own.

2. I used Red Line Synthetic oil in my 2000 Audi TT (1.8 turbo). I run my car hard often and have had not problems with its performance. And as soon as I get a second car to become my daily driver I will strip the TT down and build it up for time attacks while staying with the 1.8 turbo engine. A friend once told me that Audi’s will surprise you. He was right about that. Life fast and live free.

3. hi there i have an 1.8t agu its been remapped boosting 1.3 bar and exhaust system of 63mm from turbo , now my problem its got a big flat sport and jerks on low rev all my turbo hoses are ok what can be the problem its

   • The jerk is from too much boost at low RPMs. I had the same problem with a stock 1.8t Passat. I had it worked on and they pinched the line to the waste gate and it was running full boost all the time. It was like some was on and off the gas pedal until about 3000 rpm then it would take of and I mean nearly twice as fast as when the hose wasn’t pinched. Hopes this helps.

4. Have ’98 A4 with 1.8 liter engine. Vst plugins download cubase 4. Almost destroyed engine. O-ring between oil filter flange and turbo oil cooler assembly dried out and leaked badly. Easy fix, and nothing but a cheap o-ring.
   Owners of older models Audis should replace this o-ring.
   Unit located where oil filter screws on, between the filter and the engine oil flange.

5. can i fit the audi S3 engine in to my audi A.3 1.8L

6. 4.35 liters would blow the deals on your engine. My car takes 3 3/4 quarts at the most. Thats right to the top line on the dipstick. It’s a 2003 1.8 turbo a4. If I put 4.35 liters oil in it would be over flowing out of it! U guys should check that!

7. where is the boost valve locate on the APU engine

8. hi great forum was just wondering if i would gain even more power from putting tt injectors along with the ko4 t into my passat b5 1.8 t thanks for the info supperb

   • Interested to know how the front control arm bushings held up to Champcar in your B5 Audi. I’m building one with rear mid-engine design. I’m using a 1.8L eng with cvt transaxle in 97 A4 Quattro

9. I am building a 1.8t endurance roadracer for the Chump series. It’s in a 2000 a4 and have the following questions:
   1. I’m not certain that the motor in the car is the original. It’s an ATW. Question I have is “did the ATW come in the 2000 a4”?
   2. Next, I’m looking for a spare motor. What codes are compatible with ATW?
   Can i use any engine code just as long as I get the ECU that comes with it?
   Thanks.

10. I noticed that your list does not include the “BFB” head engine code. Is there a reason for this? Also, are you certain that the connecting rods are forged? I’ve read articles stating the opposite.

11. Hi, I have a NB 150bhp it’s been remapped, I’m fitting a K04 turbo & FMIC I was just wondering if fitting the 225bhp injectors & the 4 bar fuel req it wound make a difference or just over fuel it’s self ?

    Cheers phill

12. Fantastic article in plain english:)
    I have a 1.8t with a k03, id like to changed to a k04 but haven’t got lots of money, there are cheap (200ish) k04 turbos on ebay etc… are these cheap for a reason? ie build quality or to VAG just want to much for OEM?
    many thanks

13. Fantastic article, thanks for putting it together. I have a 1.8 tfsi (160 ps) engine and thinking of mapping it to say 210 bhp and 300 NM torque, which is what most tunners offer as stage1. Do you think this would require a turbo and clutch upgrade to retain reliability? The stock turbo is K03 on my unit. Appreciate your input.

    • I have a 1.8T ’11 A3 and also looked at remaps. The Bluefin looks like a good option but I’m also keen to find out if I’ll be able to maintain reliability. It’s still under manufacturer warranty so wanted to check before doing anything. According to the Superchips website it’ll give a 47 bhp increase which I assume would be within the thresholds of what the engine/clutch could handle without any upgrade. The article says that engine puts out up to 240 so hopefully my assumptions are correct! The only other question is whether, if I buy and install a Bluefin remap, Audi would know that I have done so use it for a bit and return to normal map before putting in for a service?

    • Have you remapped using bluefin? I’m thinking of this for my audi

14. hi could you tell me if the 1.8t sport 2001 avj engine has these forged rods please

15. Hi
    Just had my A4 1.8T remapped, stage1, it wasn’t dyno’d but the nice chap at the tuning centre said its up to about 195ish from 150 bhp. So I’ve been driving around a couple of days now and the car has just been transformed into a bullet on wheels, it was nippy in the first place but like the nice chap at the tuning centre says the stage one is the best map to do for the money and the gains you achieve are excellent!! Stage2 & 3 require some hardware.
    Now I’ve got no complaints but just a couple of questions.
    What boost psi would it be running on this stage1
    And should I preorder a clutch and if so would the TT 225 clutch fit?
    It has the AVJ lump in it with a aluminium forge type DV which I can change the spring, hence the question about boost pressure.
    And I can tell you this car is fast I’m just so shocked at that a bit of computer wizardry can turn it into a beast!! I love it, power band from 2500 up and just keeps pulling!!
    Great info by the way and glad to know that my AVJ engine is a strong one.
    Cheers.
    Matt.

16. Howdy,

    Just purchased a Leon mk1 AUQ and I love it, but I want a remap, should I also change the exhaust + intake, or the stage 1 works fine with the stock parts?

    Also thanks for the post, very helpful.

    Cheers,
    Dante

17. Hi guys…
    I would like to know if and Audi ADR cylinder head will fit on an APT bottom end.

18. I have a 1999 A4 Quattro 1.8L turbo. Can anyone help me with how to set the timing on both crankshaft and camshaft pulleys. Setting timing from scratch as if the belt broke. Where are the marks? thanks !!!

19. I have a 2001 1.8t gasoline jetta, it’s an aromatic but it sometimes stalls while driving or at rest it’s pretty random but you can feel it giving out most of the time. Any thoughts

'The 1.8T was my first turbo engine, and one of the best.'

VAG 1.8T 20v Petrol engine as fitted to Volkswagen/SEAT/Audi cars: 150-240 bhp from the factory.

The 1781 cubic centimeters in this 20 Valve turbo charged engine represents what must still be one of the most tunable engines around today and is found in family cars like the A3 and A4 and on sports oriented models like the TT, and the S3.

The fact these engines can be tuned to such extremes indicates the versatility of them.

The 1.8T was replaced with a 1.8/2.0 TFSi version and we have a guide that covers these and the more recent EA888 version is covered here.

The 20 valves are arranged with 3 intake valves and 2 exhaust valves per cylinder.

1.8T Tech guide

(The exhaust valves are somewhat larger than the intake and this intake configuration makes the engine an efficient one).

The compression ratio is set to 9.5:1, but, a slightly lower 9:1:1 in the 240 bhp versions (and those with the K04 turbo), which although high for a turbo gives plenty of low down torque.

Technical information of this engine: Bore size of 81mm (3.19in) a Stroke of 86.4mm (3.40in) and a Rod Length of 144mm The peak power band is between 2000 and 5000 rpm, and delivers good fuel economy as well around 34-38mpg.

The turbo delivers a boost pressure of 8.7 psi or .6 bar on most variants of this engine although the 180bhp engines run 11.6 psi from 2002.

The standard cast iron engine block is solidly constructed and can handle power levels up to 240bhp in factory tune and many owners have reported much higher power gains than that.

The most common turbos fitted are the KO3 & KO3s (150-180 bhp) and KO4 (210-240).

1.8T engine codes and differences

When planning upgrades it is worth finding out if your engine has the forged components already.

(Generally speaking the AGU APH ARX AUM AVC AVJ AWC AWD AWU AWV AWW BFB AJQ APP ARY AUQ BEX AMK APY APX AJH and BAM came with forged cranks but there are some exceptions to this list.)

The engine code is found at the top part of the engine near the valve cover on the side etched into the head so you might have to clean it off as the stamp often gets covered in grime.

The engine codes are (This list is not exhaustive and covers the most popular engines, some engines were only available in selected markets.)

Small Port size head Engine Codes: ADR, AMB, AMU, APT, APU, ARG, ATC, ATW, AWM, AWP, BEA, AWT, ARX, ARZ, AWC, BJX ,BAM, APX, AMK, BVR, AJQ, AJL, APP, BBU, APY, AUQ, BEX, AYP, AVJ

Large Port size Head Engine Codes: Typically 97-99: AEB, AGU, AFY, AJH, AJL

VVT was included on AUQ, AWU, AWV, AWW, ARX, AUM, AWP, AMK, BAM

1.8T Camshafts

Fast road camshafts usually bump the performance across the rpm range, you could drop a little bottom end bhp but the high end rpm power will be better.

Motorsport and race camshafts, bump the high end rpm power band but as a result the car will not idle smoothly and low end power nearly always suffers.

I'd never have found a Motorsport camshaft to be a pleasure to live with when on the daily commute.

Some 1.8T engines respond better to mild camshaft durations so set your engine up on a rolling road.

The map and fuel pump and injectors also will say much on the power gains you'll hit.

A fast road camshaft is one of the most effective mods you can do on the 1.8T engine, apart from a remap, or turbo upgrade. Competition cams are not great at low RPM and can be quite lump, which makes driving in traffic quite tricky and you'll need a higher tick over to avoid stalling.

A fast road cam works really well though, as it's optimised for road use, it's all about the profile you choose really.

1.8T Tuning tips

There are some good hybrid turbo options out there and the newer twin scroll turbos are worth investigating, much depends on where in the rev range you want the power and other mods you've done.

So lets see what 1.8T tuning mods work best on this gem of an engine.

• Stage 1 mods: Sports exhaust manifold, Panel air filters, Drilled & smoothed airbox, Remaps/piggy back ECU, Intake headers, Fast road camshaft.
• Stage 2 mods: fuel pump upgrades, induction kit, Sports catalyst & performance exhaust, high flow fuel injectors, Fast road cam, Ported and polished head KO4 turbo upgrade.
• Stage 3 mods: Engine balancing & blueprinting, Twin charging conversions, Crank and Piston upgrades to alter compression, Adding or Upgrading forced induction (turbo/supercharger) with hybrid or twinscroll, Internal engine upgrades (head flowing porting/bigger valves), Competition cam.

Porting and flowing the head is really effective, and TorqueCars recommend a 3 or 5 angle valve job to maximise airflow into the engine. This will ensure the engine gives better low end torque and increases it's efficiency.

A remap on a standard engine will typically yield around 40-50bhp increase, and, with the addition of a higher capacity turbo, a freer flowing intercooler and efficient induction and exhaust design, power gains to around 300-350bhp are possible.

Expect to have to upgrade the clutch when increasing the power of the engine or the clutch life will be dramatically reduced the TT aftermarket clutches are likely to be the best option.

The stronger engines had pistons from forged aluminum Mahle, with fracture split forged steel connecting rods mated to a forged crankshaft which is capable of handling far more that the mild 150bhp tune and retaining reliability.

1.8 T Turbos K03 K03S & K04

The KO3 turbo has 12 blades, and with the right supporting mods can release power around 200bhp, the K03s has 8 blades, although lower than the KO3 the K03s will support around 220 to 250bhp.

The K04 is a larger turbo and came in three versions (some suited to the transverse engine layout in the A4)

• K04-020 no temp gauge aperture in the housing
• K04-022 no temp gauge aperture in the housing
• K04-023 with the temperature gauge aperture

When remapped you should see an easy 250bhp on the stock 1.8T and with other mods the K04 can flow to provide around 300bhp.

When pushing these turbos hard you really should look to upgrade the air intake and intercooler.

Turbos fitted to the 1.8T engine - assume K03 unless listed below but there are some regional exceptions.

• K03S
  BBU, BE, BJX, BVP, ARY, AUQ, AWV, ARX, AUM, AWP, BEX
• K04
  BFV, APY, APX, AMK, BAM

An obvious upgrade path for KO3 turbo owners is to swap in a KO4 turbo. The software takes a lot of getting right for the maximum power gains but interestingly most people report that the KO4 turbo runs fine on the standard manufacturers ECU Map.

It is usually easier to remap the standard KO3 engine and set the boost to 1 bar as per a number of aftermarket Audi tuners standard remaps.

The KO4 changes the characteristics of the engine and gives a more rewarding drive pulling hard and when the KO3 starts to run out of steam around 5000 rpm the KO4 still delivers good power so is the logical track day or drag strip turbo.

You may think the KO4 is more prone to lag but this is not the case and both are very similar as far as low down low boost power goes.

A number of aftermarket turbos are available which fit the standard down pipe and they can be tailor made to suit your requirements with many drivers looking for a mix of economy below 2500 rpm and massive power gains from 3000 to 5500.

Hybrid turbos work really well on the 1.8T, this is where the internals are swapped out to give different blades and blade profiles, and dramatically alters the power delivery and characteristics of the turbo.

We've seen mechanics spending a loads on turbocharger upgrades on the 1.8T only to suffer the indignity of watching the 1.8T literally blow up soon after it's been enthusiastically driven.

Large upgraded turbo units often experience no power at low rpm, and low capacity turbo units spool up much more quickly but don't have the top end power band gains.

the market of turbos is always increasing and we now see variable vane turbos, where the vane profile is altered according to speed to lower lag and increase top end bhp.

Twin scroll turbos divert the exhaust flow into 2 channels and feed these at differently angled vanes in the turbo charger. They also boost the scavenging effect of the engine.

It is common that there's a limit in the air flow sensor AFM/MAF on the 1.8T when loads more air is being drawn into the engine.

We note 4 bar air sensors coping with quite large power gains, whereas the OEM air sensor was restricting power at a much lower level.

The 1.8T N75 valve

The N75 is controlled by the ECU and acts as a bleed valve, it regulated the spool up and boost duration of the turbo.

If your N75 is faulty you'll generally experience lower boost, and or power surging or lumpy power delivery. It may even drop into limp home mode.

Check the N75 valve itself, some faults are actually down to a leak in the vacuum lines.

So what does the N75 do?

You want the turbo to keep spinning but if you lift off the boost produced will just build up, if the turbo shuts down, you'll have to wait for it to spool up. Generally in most cars the wastegate assists the turbo to keep spinning and producing power. The N75 uses the wasted boost to keep the turbo spinning at light load conditions, clever eh? This is why you don't want to fit an atmospheric dump valve, as all that lovely pressurised fast moving air is lost (plus it upsets the ECU and you don't want an upset ECU do you?)

It sits between the wastegate and turbos high pressure outlet, it has 2 outputs and just 1 boost input. The output goes to either the wastegate and the intake (fully diverting boost to the wastegate when it's closed or leaking some boost to the intake allowing for a faster spool up).

The top of the N75 is a small screw, in some cars this has a locked thread to prevent tampering. But if you're lucky you won't be thread locked and can make adjustments to it.

You only need to make very small adjustments to make a difference, and you need to bear in mind the ECU is expecting a certain range of performance from it and will go all LIMP on you if you get it wrong.

Setting the N75 valve right is a bit of an art but adjust it to the right and very little air will be vented from the wastegate giving a smoother power delivery but less overall boost.

Turn it to the left you'll get more boost going to the wastegate but you'll notice the power spiking as the N75 closes and opens.

Essentially a performance version allows greater range of control, a faster response and will be less prone to sticking or leaking, all of which can cause problems in your power delivery.

We have heard of people swapping the N75 for an N18 successfully but you'd be better of sourcing a performance version.

Fuelling upgrades on the 1.8T

When you raise the bhp you will need to uprate to the fuel system.

The air intake may need upgrading, typically the sensor housing is enlarged and used with the OEM MAF sensor, but it makes sense to upgrade the MAF sensor if you want to hit higher power levels.

Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual Download

More bhp needs more air and fuel - it's as simple as that.

Most tuners we speak with say to over specify your injectors flow rate.

You won't get more power just adding bigger injectors, but you will hit power limits with other mods fitted if you don't supply enough fuel.

If you have a throttle cable you are usually running the Motronic M3.8 ECU.

Others use a drive by wire system and use the ME7.x version of the ECU note the extra E which means electronic throttle.

• M3.8 AEB, AJL, AGU, AJH.. Pre 98 cars typically had stock injectors that are rated at 205cc and will top out at 220bhp.
• ME7.1/7.5 ARZ, AUM, AUQ, APP, APX ..usually have Bosch 315cc injectors and flow well to 235bhp. To ugprade injectors on these the easy option is to get the 386cc injectors from the ME7.9 engines.
• ME 7.9 BAM, BVF, BBU, BEK, BJX, APY, AMK, APY.. and those with the K04 turbos typically had 386cc injectors that top out around 275bhp.

We've seen 1.8T tuners using Calibra yellows, Saab Reds, and others from the Bosch range all of whom provide upgraded injectors, so it's worth asking around.

Your map needs to take the injector profile into account, so fitting a well known unit can save a lot of time and headaches later.

• Fitting a 315cc injector will take you to around 245bhp
• Bosch 550cc injectors allow power approaching 350bhp
• Bosch 630cc injectors will see you hit around 400bhp.

As a rule of thumb add 20% to the flow rate when buying an injector, this takes into account injector deterioration and affords a bit of spare capacity should the engine need more fuel.

1.8T weak spots and problem areas.

Weak spots - the engine oil used in your Audi must be fully synthetic and changed at the correct service intervals (check your owners manual for details but it is typically a long life Audi service of around 24,000* miles or standard service around 9000 miles.

This depends on how the car is driven so if you are are a heavy footed driver or make lots of short journeys on a cold engine the service interval is reduced from these figures).

Use of the wrong type of oil will cause the oil pump to seize due to sludge created in the turbo housing. This causes a catastrophic loss of oil pressure and engine failure and unless you can prove that the correct oil grade was used the warranty is invalidated.

Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual Pdf

*Audi long life oil is claimed to last for up to 24,000 miles but all other synthetics are only recommended for 9000 miles!

It seems more sensible to change the oil & filter frequently as metal particles can cause damage to the engine as they become suspended in the oil.

We would change the oil annually or at 12,000 miles using Audi long life oil, it will prolong the life of your engine.

The engine takes 4.35 litres of fully synthetic 5w-30 oil (Audi long life oil must conform to VW 504 00 or 507 00 (Castrol SLX long life III is the special Audi approved oil).

Some users have reported problems with early coil packs but most of these will have been replaced now and newer coil packs do not seem to have any problems.

Fitting a blow off valve or dump valve can cause problems with the engine management as there is a loss of system pressure. There are now VAG friendly dump valves that also recirculate the lost pressure keeping the ECU happy.

The air flow sensor can become soiled particularly if you use a filter which is impregnated with oil. Take off the air flow sensor and clean with a IPA based solvent if you notice any hesitation or problems that can be assigned to a faulty MAF.

PLEASE HELP: I NEED YOUR DONATIONS TO COVER THE COSTS OF RUNNING THIS SITE AND KEEP IT RUNNING. I do not charge you to access this website and it saves most TorqueCars readers $100's each year - but we are NON PROFIT and not even covering our costs. To keep us running PLEASE Donate here

If you liked this page please share it with your friends, drop a link to it in your favourite forum or use the bookmarking options to save it to your social media profile.

Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual And Service

Feedback

Please use ourforums if you wish to ask a tuning question, and please note we do not sell parts or services, we are just an online magazine.

Help us improve, leave a suggestion or tip

Audi

Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual 2016

Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual And Parts

Will A Tuned 1.8t Ecu Work With Both Auto Manual 2017

1. I build a auditt which we stroked to a 2.1L and fitted a t3 t4 hybrid turbo. I am sitting with a huge problem in that the throttle closes itself under hard boost. Is there any way of solving this problem. On the dyno the car acts normal but on the road it starts having a mind of its own.

2. I used Red Line Synthetic oil in my 2000 Audi TT (1.8 turbo). I run my car hard often and have had not problems with its performance. And as soon as I get a second car to become my daily driver I will strip the TT down and build it up for time attacks while staying with the 1.8 turbo engine. A friend once told me that Audi’s will surprise you. He was right about that. Life fast and live free.

3. hi there i have an 1.8t agu its been remapped boosting 1.3 bar and exhaust system of 63mm from turbo , now my problem its got a big flat sport and jerks on low rev all my turbo hoses are ok what can be the problem its

   • The jerk is from too much boost at low RPMs. I had the same problem with a stock 1.8t Passat. I had it worked on and they pinched the line to the waste gate and it was running full boost all the time. It was like some was on and off the gas pedal until about 3000 rpm then it would take of and I mean nearly twice as fast as when the hose wasn’t pinched. Hopes this helps.

4. Have ’98 A4 with 1.8 liter engine. Almost destroyed engine. O-ring between oil filter flange and turbo oil cooler assembly dried out and leaked badly. Easy fix, and nothing but a cheap o-ring.
   Owners of older models Audis should replace this o-ring.
   Unit located where oil filter screws on, between the filter and the engine oil flange.

5. can i fit the audi S3 engine in to my audi A.3 1.8L

6. 4.35 liters would blow the deals on your engine. My car takes 3 3/4 quarts at the most. Thats right to the top line on the dipstick. It’s a 2003 1.8 turbo a4. If I put 4.35 liters oil in it would be over flowing out of it! U guys should check that!

7. where is the boost valve locate on the APU engine

8. hi great forum was just wondering if i would gain even more power from putting tt injectors along with the ko4 t into my passat b5 1.8 t thanks for the info supperb

   • Interested to know how the front control arm bushings held up to Champcar in your B5 Audi. I’m building one with rear mid-engine design. I’m using a 1.8L eng with cvt transaxle in 97 A4 Quattro

9. I am building a 1.8t endurance roadracer for the Chump series. It’s in a 2000 a4 and have the following questions:
   1. I’m not certain that the motor in the car is the original. It’s an ATW. Question I have is “did the ATW come in the 2000 a4”?
   2. Next, I’m looking for a spare motor. What codes are compatible with ATW?
   Can i use any engine code just as long as I get the ECU that comes with it?
   Thanks.

10. I noticed that your list does not include the “BFB” head engine code. Is there a reason for this? Also, are you certain that the connecting rods are forged? I’ve read articles stating the opposite.

11. Hi, I have a NB 150bhp it’s been remapped, I’m fitting a K04 turbo & FMIC I was just wondering if fitting the 225bhp injectors & the 4 bar fuel req it wound make a difference or just over fuel it’s self ?

    Cheers phill

12. Fantastic article in plain english:)
    I have a 1.8t with a k03, id like to changed to a k04 but haven’t got lots of money, there are cheap (200ish) k04 turbos on ebay etc… are these cheap for a reason? ie build quality or to VAG just want to much for OEM?
    many thanks

13. Fantastic article, thanks for putting it together. I have a 1.8 tfsi (160 ps) engine and thinking of mapping it to say 210 bhp and 300 NM torque, which is what most tunners offer as stage1. Do you think this would require a turbo and clutch upgrade to retain reliability? The stock turbo is K03 on my unit. Appreciate your input.

    • I have a 1.8T ’11 A3 and also looked at remaps. The Bluefin looks like a good option but I’m also keen to find out if I’ll be able to maintain reliability. It’s still under manufacturer warranty so wanted to check before doing anything. According to the Superchips website it’ll give a 47 bhp increase which I assume would be within the thresholds of what the engine/clutch could handle without any upgrade. The article says that engine puts out up to 240 so hopefully my assumptions are correct! The only other question is whether, if I buy and install a Bluefin remap, Audi would know that I have done so use it for a bit and return to normal map before putting in for a service?

    • Have you remapped using bluefin? I’m thinking of this for my audi

14. hi could you tell me if the 1.8t sport 2001 avj engine has these forged rods please

15. Hi
    Just had my A4 1.8T remapped, stage1, it wasn’t dyno’d but the nice chap at the tuning centre said its up to about 195ish from 150 bhp. So I’ve been driving around a couple of days now and the car has just been transformed into a bullet on wheels, it was nippy in the first place but like the nice chap at the tuning centre says the stage one is the best map to do for the money and the gains you achieve are excellent!! Stage2 & 3 require some hardware.
    Now I’ve got no complaints but just a couple of questions.
    What boost psi would it be running on this stage1
    And should I preorder a clutch and if so would the TT 225 clutch fit?
    It has the AVJ lump in it with a aluminium forge type DV which I can change the spring, hence the question about boost pressure.
    And I can tell you this car is fast I’m just so shocked at that a bit of computer wizardry can turn it into a beast!! I love it, power band from 2500 up and just keeps pulling!!
    Great info by the way and glad to know that my AVJ engine is a strong one.
    Cheers.
    Matt.

16. Howdy,

    Just purchased a Leon mk1 AUQ and I love it, but I want a remap, should I also change the exhaust + intake, or the stage 1 works fine with the stock parts?

    Also thanks for the post, very helpful.

    Cheers,
    Dante

17. Hi guys…
    I would like to know if and Audi ADR cylinder head will fit on an APT bottom end.

18. I have a 1999 A4 Quattro 1.8L turbo. Can anyone help me with how to set the timing on both crankshaft and camshaft pulleys. Setting timing from scratch as if the belt broke. Where are the marks? thanks !!!

19. I have a 2001 1.8t gasoline jetta, it’s an aromatic but it sometimes stalls while driving or at rest it’s pretty random but you can feel it giving out most of the time. Any thoughts